Your Tailoring Academy
I wanted to make real workwear back then! I liked the rugged 1950’s look – a bit worn and baggy. I bought torn and wasted second-hand jeans and re-made them to fit me and my own body size. It was the late 80’s. I was told it was the “original look” to have, and I wore it in layers together with cotton turtlenecks, worn denim jacket and a oversized blazer. All on top of each other. I was happy.
Grading. Making garments larger and smaller. The DNA of fashion retail. To fit and please a vast audience of eager consumers, that just can’t wait to get hold of your fantastic designs! But there’s just a problem – they want their size.
10 cubed. Or cube root of 1.000. Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory. A project. How many items of clothing would I need for that? (And what is Bespoke Era anyway?)
Math can be so complicated! Especially when tried to be put right into practical use. I know that. So when our Bespoke Era project was started – a project where we look into if a person could wear bespoke tailored garments only, for a certain amount of time, and if possibly, having all the clothes made by one person only, like in the “good ol’ days” – I quickly began to plan and calculate how much clothing and time that was needed, to enable our test-person to be dressed in life’s many situations. A lot, it showed. Of course. But not as much as one would think. Still I wasen’t quite sure of my calculations.
“There will be no algorithms. No commercials. No data harvesting. No AI. Just you and me both.”
That’s what it says within the new updated version of the 28 year old tailoring academy DTTA. Also, “A new way of learning.” But what is that? And is it true? And isn’t just AI the buzzword of the moment? How could someone not want to use that?
A toile is a most admirable thing to me – a result of ideas, tailoring technique, process planning and 3D experience evaluation mixed together, where all the ingredients has to be in balance with each other. A quality garment mock-up. A test garment, if you like. A century-old technique loved by many, but also often frown upon by people in a hurry.