Getting ready for summer!

While spring slowly turns into summer, at some point, I usually feel the need for a thorough clean-up! And that was today! The daylight gets brighter, the sun rises higher, and all colors just pop-up everywhere – everything suddenly seems so full of life! And that’s when it all needs a fresh back-drop.

The bright light also, of course, reminds me of washing windows… letting the sun in, clean and crisp – it’s a must! And having the studio in an old late 18th century building, placed in a neighborhood dating centuries back, I really love seeing all the colorful old facades on the other side of the narrow street, contrasting to the blue sky. So windows need to be done. Check!

And then floors… Having your workspace functioning as both production and customer greeting area, cleaning and tidying up the studio can be a constant struggle. Unlike other traditional stores, that have their production placed elswhere, or online shops where you usually don’t see the premises at all, we don’t really hide any parts of our design and tailoring work processes. It all happens right here! For you to see. But naturally we still want it to look okay and not compleatly messy (as it often can end up doing in the tailoring and sewing trade). And sometimes it needs an extra push. Like today!

The blue sky and all the other coloring outside also inspires our work! As we’re finalizing all planning for next spring, our blue naturally ends up right there in the center! Bright colors turned into active wear!

And yellow, and orange, and mint, and stripes and flowers! Yes! Amazing to finally letting it all come together in lot’s of bursting feelings and fun! Can’t wait to get started! But first… finishing to swab the floors, right?

There! The sunny, bright heat and coloring outside in the street! And comforting and freshly cooling shadows inside. Now let’s get back to the “actual” work, shan’t we? Getting all ready for summer!

– Sten Martin / DTTA

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How much clothes do I really need? (Bespoke Era and beyond!)

10 cubed. Or cube root of 1.000. Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory. A project. How many items of clothing would I need for that? (And what is Bespoke Era anyway?)

Math can be so complicated! Especially when tried to be put right into practical use. I know that. So when our Bespoke Era project was started – a project where we look into if a person could wear bespoke tailored garments only, for a certain amount of time, and if possibly, having all the clothes made by one person only, like in the “good ol’ days” – I quickly began to plan and calculate how much clothing and time that was needed, to enable our test-person to be dressed in life’s many situations. A lot, it showed. Of course. But not as much as one would think. Still I wasen’t quite sure of my calculations.

Since I was the one making all the bespoke clothing for this project, some things was extra important for me. To make good quality was one thing. Because then the garments would last longer and less items was needed to be made. To make clothes that could be combined was another thing. Because then you could use the clothes for even more occasions, and over and over again. The real challenge though, came with the discussions of how many styles of clothing there should be. Suits – of course. Sportswear – yes. Casual wear – practical. Winter garments – hm… more layers? Underwear – needed! Formal wear – are you kidding me…? Oh well alright then. Fashion items – what? You must be joking! Luxury goods – hey! Wait a minute! Stop!

It quickly became clear, that to build a gentleman’s wardrobe from scratch would involve a huge amount of work for both the tailor and for the gentleman planning and wearing the project’s clothing. The issue would not be so much about the amount of clothing that would be needed, but more about how many garments that would be desired, to keep up a respectable look and standard within a modern way of living. A question not easy answered. And what equation to use for that?

But back to the basic mathematics!

If we break it all down into a simplified practical problem, I would probably present it like this: First, it’s about how many types of garments that are needed. Second, how many variations of each type. Third, how many combinations possible.

So, if we were to say that I basically would need three types of clothing. Something over the waist, something under the waist, and something to cover and alternate (your body temperature) with. And then, that I had one variation of each – that would be sufficient for x amount of days.

But now let’s step it up a bit! Let’s say I’m a bit of a dandy, and I would absolutely not accept to be caught wearing the same look twice! What to do then? Suddenly we’re heading into some kind of combination mathematics! Let’s se… If I had 3 trousers, 3 tops (t-shirt, turtleneck, shirt) and 3 “coats” (jacket, denim jacket, blazer) they would together give me a combination possibility of 3 cubed (i.e. 3 x 3 x 3) = 27. Actually covering enough combinations for almost a month of wearing new looks every day!

Now let’s imagine 1.000 days – almost 3 years – how much clothes would I need for that? With new combinations to wear for every day of course! Well… that would be the cube root of 1.000. And that equals 10!

There it is! I would (just) need 10 trousers, 10 tops, and 10 coats for being able to make 1.000 different combinations of those three item types! 10 x 10 x 10 = 1.000. A whole new look every day for almost three years! Amazing.

Maybe it should be tested? We could call it Thousand Days Of Hope and Glory! Or, A journey into an unknown creative struggle! Starting from scratch and see where it goes…? What do you think? It would be like the tailoring of Bespoke Era and beyond. When do we start?

– Sten Martin / DTTA

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Is Electric Blue the new you?

Finally! Done. The Electric Blue Cobalt Turtleneck is ready for fitting. (Only hemming is left to be finished.)

I hope this new addition of vibrant color(s) to the Bespoke Era project will give it a fresh boost.

And hopefully it will also show that tailoring can be many things, especially within the idea of a fully tailored wardrobe – turtlenecks, t-shirts, sportswear, suits… Yes, all and everything.

Here below, you can follow the process for this item – The Turtleneck!

First, cutting out all the parts.

Then thread colors’ are chosen. I mixed different shades, just to get a more vibrant seam.

Stay strips for the shoulder seam is added.

Making the shoulder seams with overlock.

Trimming down the stay strips to be more narrow.

Joining and adding the neck piece.

Making sure to catch all three layers with the overlock.

Also making sure the stay strips are properly caught by the (neck) seam, and laying compleatly flat.

Finished neck piece.

The neck part’s seam is placed on the left side here, and matches the shoulder seam exactly.

Chalking hemlines.

Pressing hemlines.

Adding-in and stitching the sleeve part.

Closing the side- and underarm seam.

Overlocking.

Reinforceing the part under the arms, where the seams meet, with an additional machine stitch.

Checking that chalked and pressed hemlines still meet after the seam is made.

There! All finished! The menswear bright color turtleneck! Maybe you would like one too?

– Sten Martin / DTTA

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Choosing colors

As a kickstart for even more colors in our bespoke tailoring I’m making a men’s cotton jersey Electric Blue Cobalt Turtleneck for the Bespoke Era project.

Choosing colors can be really hard! But then again, one have to start somewhere, right? And then continue the journey. The idea here is to go for colors that match the rest of the collection – or your wardrobe – and will boost the other items planned, or already made.

I will start with this blue, and really look forward to see where it all takes me!

– Sten Martin / DTTA

The light striped summer jacket!

Finally, after photographing and prepping, the Striped Light Summer Jacket is ready to leave the studio for extensive testing by Alexander. I wonder if it will pass the test before being put into production? There are multiple considerations in our own new products’ testing. (Overall use, practicality, movement, detail functionality, travel and packing, durability, comfort…) Otherwise it’s back to the “drawing-board” for adjustments. Even the smallest details. We want only the best for our customers!

There! The jacket is ready to leave the studio to meet the outside world!

The jacket’s front closure detail, with hook and bar tack.

The jacket’s sleeve vent details, with press buttons.

– Sten Martin / DTTA

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