Day 4. Why change? (A4, B1, C1)

Sometimes you just want to wear something totally relaxed. Something that looks and feel like that old washed-out t-shirts from back in the days. Right? But maybe just a tad neater, for work or evening meetings? Ta-da! Enter A4! The latest addition to the Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory project! The relaxed t-shirt!

Making relaxed clothes, as a tailor, many feel is a contradiction in terms. Tailoring should be stiff, expensive and overwhelming! But who says that’s true? Not me! And I’m a tailor!

I want some of my clothes to be stiff and controlled, and some to be comfy and relaxed. I want different, just like my mood changes! But I never ever want uncomfortable clothes. And, regarding those relaxed clothes mentioned before, I of course want them to be relaxed in a way I want them to be, with the look and feel I prefere.

So why not just use the washed out clothes then? Why change? As they say, if there’s a concept that’s working, why not stick with it? Well… maybe because the garment was actually falling apart? Maybe the garment didn’t fit in in your work environment? Or – crayzy thought – maybe there actually was some issues with the garment after all, that just irritated you to pieces, allthough it’s comfyness? Or, maybe you needed one more? Or two?

Most of the tailoring I make, can sometimes feel a bit stiff and strange in the start, and that’s natural for something new. True. But… it actually has a built in change with wear! The thing is, that the more you wear it, the better it will fit!

So this time around, with the new garment on, you’ll again think – Why change? Why not wear this all the time? Hm… maybe becase you started a new project, where you’re supposed to come up with new things and combinations all the time? Who knows.

– Sten Marin / DTTA

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Day 3. Going deep. (A3, B1, C1)

Today the V-neck version of a black t-shirt was added to our Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory project. It’s item no. 5 and it’s named A3. But the choise of neckline’s style isn’t the only thing to be considered when opting for a personalized fit. Let’s dig deep into some of the things to look at and choose between!

The first obvious things are of course the body’s width and length. And then the neckline-style, and sleeve length. But there’s more to this! Try to see the shape of it’s torso as a 3D silhouette! Then you can decide so much more!

If you look at the sides, you can see a slightly shaping. That’s because I want it tighter over the chest, and looser at waist and hips. But that’s of course up to you. And if you look at the arm-holes, you will notice that they’re very high indeed – that gives a lot of movement, without pulling up the t-shirt every time you raise your arms.

If we continue to neck and shoulders you can detect that the back part is cut much higher than the front part. This is done to prevent a back-sloping neckline with a gaping area at center back (which I just can’t stand to wear) – a very common thing nowadays! Therefore I always (often) shift the shoulder seam and neckline forward in my construction before I cut the fabric.

Here’s a back view wich perfectly shows the “athletic fit” cut, which just means a narrow fit and therefore lot’s of movement. You can also detect how narrow the sleeves are placed on the shoulder seam.

And here seen, a bit more from above.

I also like wide hemming. It gives a softer feel, and a nicer drape. Plus a more stable elasticity there. The width of the sleeve also feels important, to give just the right look and feel over the biceps muscle. Do you want it tight, or loose, or maybe somewhere in between? It’s all up to you.

So here it is! The third combination with a new t-shirt, A3, plus the same denim jeans and jacket as before – B1 and C1 – which now have been worn in three continuous days. The stiff material already now feels so much softer. The big question now, is what t-shirt to wear (and make) tomorrow? Let’s see!

– Sten Marin / DTTA

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Day 2. Tailored t-shirt. (A2, B1, C1)

Today the Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory project was updated with a black cotton jersey t-shirt, with a slender shape. Which now raises our counting to a total of 4 items.

A t-shirt…? How advanced is that? Well, actually just as advanced as you want it to be!

There are numerous of companies out there that boast of tailormade (custom-made, couture, whatever…) t-shirts. But where can you get it exactly as you want it? Well, right. I thought so. Almost nowhere.

Most t-shirts are made in factories far-far away, added AI, digital interfaces and microchip technology. But you still get a standard t-shirt, just with some tweaks here and there. And if that’s what you want, that’s okay! That’s not what I want though.

I just want a clean-cut, extreamly comfortable black simple-silhouette t-shirt, that fits me, the way I want it to fit. And that can be quite difficult to find on a shelf, already made. Why? Because the producers don’t know my body and my wishes.

And that’s why, to truly design your own t-shirt is so great! You can do exactly what you want! Everything can be altered! And the next one can even evolve, together with your taste, mood and knowledge, to something better, compleatly different, or just basicly a new one.

That’s what we here call the Bespoke Era Effect – to get inspired by your own hands-on process of creating, never running out of inspiration, and always evolving. Still tweaking and improving all the small details, while being compleatly free in the greater scales of things.

And what do you know – suddenly it all ends up into… a black jersey t-shirt! The t-shirt. This one was called A2.

– Sten Marin / DTTA

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Day 1 of 1.000! (A1, B1, C1)

First day of the project! My mathematical experiment – Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory. Yes!

Finished these three designs just in time for today. My first combination! And at the same time the very first items from our three categories A – A top, B – Bottom and C – Cover!

First A1 – The black cotton jersey turtleneck. I made this one today.

Then B1 – The black cotton denim jeans. Also made these today.

And last C1 – The black cotton denim jacket.

And this is how it looked together.

Each of these items are to be worn 100 time each. But never together again! So I have to go back to the sewing table tonight. To make more clothes. See you tomorrow!

– Sten Martin / DTTA

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First garment! (Of 30.)

Getting ready for Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory! And I’m in a hurry!! The project is planned to start tomorrow and I already need 3 garments for first day’s look! No time to waste. (Becase as of today, I have non.)

Since each garment is supposed to be worn 100 times, I must choose carfully. It has to be wearable, it has to be resilient, and I should really like to wear it. And  every item should be combinable with all the other garments in each of the other two categories. So I went for black. And I went for a denim jacket first.

Due to the intense time-restriction, I skipped the pattern-making and went directly for an old pattern (which I of course also have made), hoping it will fit. Otherwise – well, alternations is as mentioned before allowed in the project. So I can always adjust it later on.

After cutting with almost no waste, each and every seam should be turned and stitched to get that resilient and typical denim stitch. And here is how I do it. First I stitch the the parts together with a quick stitch placing the sides on top of each other.

Then I press one side tight over the other.

And turn the seam over and press again.

The raw edges are now compleatly covered, and ech side hug and grip into the other forming an incredible resilient seam (since the stitch itself won’t be “pulled”).

Time for top-stitching! Made on a really strong and powerful vintage leather machine. First one side.

And then back on the other side.

There! Two finished seams on the front part!

Continuing with front pockets and pocket flaps!

Here, showing the pocket opening under the flap itself.

Adding front yoke.

Adding sleeves.

Adding collar.

And suddenly… there the whole thing starts to take form! A neck hang loop is also added.

There it is! First garment of the planned 30! (Still without buttonholes though – but that’s ok.) The jacket I s called C1, or Cover 1. Tomorrow I will make A1 and B1, to get my first full outfit for Day 1. Let’s do it! Tomorrow. See you there!

– Sten Martin / DTTA

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