Day 3. Going deep. (A3, B1, C1)

Today the V-neck version of a black t-shirt was added to our Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory project. It’s item no. 5 and it’s named A3. But the choise of neckline’s style isn’t the only thing to be considered when opting for a personalized fit. Let’s dig deep into some of the things to look at and choose between!

The first obvious things are of course the body’s width and length. And then the neckline-style, and sleeve length. But there’s more to this! Try to see the shape of it’s torso as a 3D silhouette! Then you can decide so much more!

If you look at the sides, you can see a slightly shaping. That’s because I want it tighter over the chest, and looser at waist and hips. But that’s of course up to you. And if you look at the arm-holes, you will notice that they’re very high indeed – that gives a lot of movement, without pulling up the t-shirt every time you raise your arms.

If we continue to neck and shoulders you can detect that the back part is cut much higher than the front part. This is done to prevent a back-sloping neckline with a gaping area at center back (which I just can’t stand to wear) – a very common thing nowadays! Therefore I always (often) shift the shoulder seam and neckline forward in my construction before I cut the fabric.

Here’s a back view wich perfectly shows the “athletic fit” cut, which just means a narrow fit and therefore lot’s of movement. You can also detect how narrow the sleeves are placed on the shoulder seam.

And here seen, a bit more from above.

I also like wide hemming. It gives a softer feel, and a nicer drape. Plus a more stable elasticity there. The width of the sleeve also feels important, to give just the right look and feel over the biceps muscle. Do you want it tight, or loose, or maybe somewhere in between? It’s all up to you.

So here it is! The third combination with a new t-shirt, A3, plus the same denim jeans and jacket as before – B1 and C1 – which now have been worn in three continuous days. The stiff material already now feels so much softer. The big question now, is what t-shirt to wear (and make) tomorrow? Let’s see!

– Sten Marin / DTTA

__________

If you enjoyed this content, feel free to support us by sharing this article, subscribe to one or two of our different platforms with informative content on tailoring and design, or, by just donating a sum. As a small independent company, we’re always greatful for your support!

If you would like to comment, ask questions or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

Day 2. Tailored t-shirt. (A2, B1, C1)

Today the Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory project was updated with a black cotton jersey t-shirt, with a slender shape. Which now raises our counting to a total of 4 items.

A t-shirt…? How advanced is that? Well, actually just as advanced as you want it to be!

There are numerous of companies out there that boast of tailormade (custom-made, couture, whatever…) t-shirts. But where can you get it exactly as you want it? Well, right. I thought so. Almost nowhere.

Most t-shirts are made in factories far-far away, added AI, digital interfaces and microchip technology. But you still get a standard t-shirt, just with some tweaks here and there. And if that’s what you want, that’s okay! That’s not what I want though.

I just want a clean-cut, extreamly comfortable black simple-silhouette t-shirt, that fits me, the way I want it to fit. And that can be quite difficult to find on a shelf, already made. Why? Because the producers don’t know my body and my wishes.

And that’s why, to truly design your own t-shirt is so great! You can do exactly what you want! Everything can be altered! And the next one can even evolve, together with your taste, mood and knowledge, to something better, compleatly different, or just basicly a new one.

That’s what we here call the Bespoke Era Effect – to get inspired by your own hands-on process of creating, never running out of inspiration, and always evolving. Still tweaking and improving all the small details, while being compleatly free in the greater scales of things.

And what do you know – suddenly it all ends up into… a black jersey t-shirt! The t-shirt. This one was called A2.

– Sten Marin / DTTA

__________

If you enjoyed this content, feel free to support us by sharing this article, subscribe to one or two of our different platforms with informative content on tailoring and design, or, by just donating a sum. As a small independent company, we’re always greatful for your support!

If you would like to comment, ask questions or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

T.D.O.H.A.G. – The prequel!

The idea is actually quite simple.

  1. Take one person.
  2. Design 10 trousers (or skirts), 10 tops (or shirts), and 10 “covers” (as in jackets, windbreakers or coats).
  3. Make the garments.
  4. Wear them 100 times each.
  5. That would give a total of 1.000 combination possibilities.

Let’s take that one more time! 30 garments, divided into three groups. Combine them with each other and that will give you a whole new outfit, every day, for 1.000 days.  10 x 10 x 10 = 1.000. Rather obvious one could say – but still kind of amazing! That’s almost three years!

So what’s the hook here? Well, a few actually! Let’s break it down into a couple of questions:

1. Which kind garments should it be? Hm… to make the calculation work we’ll need three categories. My suggestion is a very simple setup called A, B, C. A would stand for “a top”. (Clever, right?) B would stand for bottom. And C for cover (it all). Together, a fully dressed person.

2. What should the garments look like? It’s all up to you. The challenge though, is that all of the pieces in each and every category, should be  combinable with every piece in the other two categories! So think it through properly! Do I need something for weddings? And can I wear that piece 100 times… in some way? (Alternations is okay.)

3. Can a garment endure 100 times of wear? I certainly hope so! You have to make it durable. (Mending and repairing is okay.)

4. What about additional clothing? Well the focus will not be on that part – just on the three categories. But preferably the other items should be self-produced also

5. How much time do we have for preparations? Almost non. Starting Maj 20th 2018. 4 days.

So what do you think? Will you join me? Just to show that lesser garments in good quality maybe still can give you lots of possibilities to look fresh – every day!

Thousand Days Of Hope And Glory! T.D.O.H.A.G. Let’s do it! Right?

– Sten Martin / DTTA

__________

If you enjoyed this content, feel free to support us by sharing this article, subscribe to one or two of our different platforms with informative content on tailoring and design, or, by just donating a sum. As a small independent company, we’re always greatful for your support!

If you would like to comment, ask questions, or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

Getting ready for summer!

While spring slowly turns into summer, at some point, I usually feel the need for a thorough clean-up! And that was today! The daylight gets brighter, the sun rises higher, and all colors just pop-up everywhere – everything suddenly seems so full of life! And that’s when it all needs a fresh back-drop.

The bright light also, of course, reminds me of washing windows… letting the sun in, clean and crisp – it’s a must! And having the studio in an old late 18th century building, placed in a neighborhood dating centuries back, I really love seeing all the colorful old facades on the other side of the narrow street, contrasting to the blue sky. So windows need to be done. Check!

And then floors… Having your workspace functioning as both production and customer greeting area, cleaning and tidying up the studio can be a constant struggle. Unlike other traditional stores, that have their production placed elswhere, or online shops where you usually don’t see the premises at all, we don’t really hide any parts of our design and tailoring work processes. It all happens right here! For you to see. But naturally we still want it to look okay and not compleatly messy (as it often can end up doing in the tailoring and sewing trade). And sometimes it needs an extra push. Like today!

The blue sky and all the other coloring outside also inspires our work! As we’re finalizing all planning for next spring, our blue naturally ends up right there in the center! Bright colors turned into active wear!

And yellow, and orange, and mint, and stripes and flowers! Yes! Amazing to finally letting it all come together in lot’s of bursting feelings and fun! Can’t wait to get started! But first… finishing to swab the floors, right?

There! The sunny, bright heat and coloring outside in the street! And comforting and freshly cooling shadows inside. Now let’s get back to the “actual” work, shan’t we? Getting all ready for summer!

– Sten Martin / DTTA

__________

If you enjoyed this content, feel free to support us by sharing this article, subscribe to one or two of our different platforms with informative content on tailoring and design, or, by just donating a sum. As a small independent company, we’re always greatful for your support, big or small.

If you would like to comment, ask questions, or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

Denim dreams. Part 1. (How it all started.)

I wanted to make real workwear back then! I liked the rugged 1950’s look – a bit worn and baggy. I bought torn and wasted second-hand jeans and re-made them to fit me and my own body size. It was the late 80’s. I was told it was the “original look” to have, and I wore it in layers together with cotton turtlenecks, worn denim jacket and a oversized blazer. All on top of each other. I was happy.

Then fashion changed. And I got confused. A whole new “original” denim look arrived. So how did that work for a true story, I asked myself? Not much. Not much at all. Everything was just fabricated lies. Marketing, was what they called it back then as I remember it. I wasn’t happy.

I gradually begun dreaming of my very own denim look and clothing! And, as a result of that, I also started making stuff myself. It wasn’t easy, I’ll tell you that! Some things even looked rather odd I thought. Not “original” at all. More “creative” and “personal” – and much less industrial. And precisely that, was the exact center of the conflict I started having with myself. Allthough I really wanted to make my own, I still wanted to tap in to the very thing that people understood about denim and jeans – the highly romanticized idea of factory produced goods, made super-robust and compleatly identical. And that wasn’t what I got with my true friend in arms – my home sewing-machine! It was absolutely too weak and “fine” in its stitching. I realized I had to move on and upgrade, to fulfill my denim dream.

Now I have a 1970’s heavy industrial leather machine, to which a airplane-mechanic have added a very powerful engine. I have imported heavy American denim twill fabric, wowed on old shuttle looms and dyed in natural indigo. I have thread in good colors and rivets to choose between. Durable zippers and rough stable buttons. And I also know how to make those good twisted seams, and a neat sharp look. But what happened?

Well, my dream shifted! And the world around me too! Now I see a lot of flimsy badly made jeans from shops everywhere! And I gradually realized that almost all worn looks today, are by no doubt artificially made with clorine, enzyme bleach and acids! I don’t want that!!

I’ve also realized, that what I myself want now, is just a simple cut with almost non-detectable altered detailing. I want comfortable garments that can evolve together with me. I want a durable, minimalistic and comfortable own design, where I know how and where and when exactly every stitch was made. I want something made for… well, just me.

I realized I now have my very own agenda. I’m actually making my own dreams real.

– Sten Martin

__________

If you would like to comment, ask questions, or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!