My work with denim has changed much compared to back in the days. I feel much more relaxed about it after decades of practicing. And I’m experiencing a certain comfortness around this classic workwear theme. To be experimenting with small details seem more interesting to me right now, than radically changing such a very well-known concept. Alter seam-placements, investigating a fabrics’ ability to form and change under the influence of damp, moist, human temperature and usage. To test how different shapes are experienced by the user. And study “personal fading” – the individual fade – where all creases appear according to the user’s movements and washing preferences. All above, very specific things that to me has become so very important in creating great individual design.
I wanted to make real workwear back then! I liked the rugged 1950’s look – a bit worn and baggy. I bought torn and wasted second-hand jeans and re-made them to fit me and my own body size. It was the late 80’s. I was told it was the “original look” to have, and I wore it in layers together with cotton turtlenecks, worn denim jacket and a oversized blazer. All on top of each other. I was happy.
We often get that question. “Don’t you need a factory to make jeans?”
It’s all about making the right fit. Understanding the material. Getting the right fabric. Having a powerful industrial sewing machine – mine is from the 1970’s. And a good steam station. But a factory? I always skip that one.