Trying something new !

It’s now! Right now! You finally decided to create a great collection! But how to do that? How to get it done?

First, you head over to your favorite tailoring academy. And then you make a choise. If you’re experienced and just want it all made – in best quality possible – you should choose Unfold Your Vision, and we will help you make it.

But, if you’re an absolut beginner and have never made a garment before, I would suggest you’d choose I Want To Interact. And there, you can just start exploring, all the wonderful possibilities tailoring itself can offer you – and also, start asking questions about it!

Maybe you just want to be entertained, then choose Inspiration. It’s completely free! A daily dosis.

Or if you want to go to class, and research a project together with others, choose Time To get Serious!

It’s that simple! A free-thinking and independent tailoring academy! It’s our new version of a safe-space, where you can discuss, learn and develop your own garment-making techniques further.

Since our passion and mission always has been to explain how innovative and well-fitted quality garments are made, we thought it would be interesting to turn everything on it’s head! To meet you, where you’re at – instead of you, traveling and adapting to us! To help you solve your problems directly when you have them, and where you have them – instead of you following an already fixed path of learning. In other words, now you decide what to learn. And when. And in what order!

One could say, it’s almost like streaming knowledge! Or leasing your learning! By discussions and projects had at the academy, you will quickly start developing new ways of how to use, and view, quality design and tailoring! Are you ready? We are!

But hey… you might say! Wait a minute! Haven’t we forgot something? What if someone just want one of those traditional one-to-one individual courses, like in the old days? What then? Well… no worries. We got you covered! We saved those over at It’s All About Tailoring. As they say – when you try something new, always be sure to still save the original. Right?

– Sten Martin / DTTA

__________

If you enjoyed this content, feel free to support us by sharing this article, subscribe to one or two of our different platforms with informative content on tailoring and design, or, by just donating a sum. As a small independent company, we’re always greatful for your support!

If you would like to comment, ask questions or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

Getting ready for summer!

While spring slowly turns into summer, at some point, I usually feel the need for a thorough clean-up! And that was today! The daylight gets brighter, the sun rises higher, and all colors just pop-up everywhere – everything suddenly seems so full of life! And that’s when it all needs a fresh back-drop.

The bright light also, of course, reminds me of washing windows… letting the sun in, clean and crisp – it’s a must! And having the studio in an old late 18th century building, placed in a neighborhood dating centuries back, I really love seeing all the colorful old facades on the other side of the narrow street, contrasting to the blue sky. So windows need to be done. Check!

And then floors… Having your workspace functioning as both production and customer greeting area, cleaning and tidying up the studio can be a constant struggle. Unlike other traditional stores, that have their production placed elswhere, or online shops where you usually don’t see the premises at all, we don’t really hide any parts of our design and tailoring work processes. It all happens right here! For you to see. But naturally we still want it to look okay and not compleatly messy (as it often can end up doing in the tailoring and sewing trade). And sometimes it needs an extra push. Like today!

The blue sky and all the other coloring outside also inspires our work! As we’re finalizing all planning for next spring, our blue naturally ends up right there in the center! Bright colors turned into active wear!

And yellow, and orange, and mint, and stripes and flowers! Yes! Amazing to finally letting it all come together in lot’s of bursting feelings and fun! Can’t wait to get started! But first… finishing to swab the floors, right?

There! The sunny, bright heat and coloring outside in the street! And comforting and freshly cooling shadows inside. Now let’s get back to the “actual” work, shan’t we? Getting all ready for summer!

– Sten Martin / DTTA

__________

If you enjoyed this content, feel free to support us by sharing this article, subscribe to one or two of our different platforms with informative content on tailoring and design, or, by just donating a sum. As a small independent company, we’re always greatful for your support, big or small.

If you would like to comment, ask questions, or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

Why is grading so darn difficult? (Or is it?) Part 1.

Grading. Making garments larger and smaller. The DNA of fashion retail. To fit and please a vast audience of eager consumers, that just can’t wait to get hold of your fantastic designs! But there’s just a problem – they want their size.

It’s purely technical. And mathematical. And therefore the very nightmare of most creative small design-business-owners and their start-ups. Unfortunately the majority of them just surrender before they even produced a single collection – with styles in different sizes that is.

What you usually are forced to do, is sending it all off to a factory somewhere, and hope they’ll get it right. Without your control, often sent back and forth with oddly shaped garments. Or, you simply order already designed and graded garments. And then add your own design flair with… well, a pocket or a color shade maybe. But is that original design? You tell me.

But imagine – just for a second… You have spent all this enormous amount of time designing just that dress. It’s fantastic! You’re very proud, and rightly so. And hey – here comes your first customer! You can’t believe your luck – it’s the very famous [insert your favorite artist’s or politician’s name here]…! Unfortunately he or she is not a model size – ‘coz most people just aren’t. And we’re in a hurry! What can you possibly do?

It’s in these situations, a bit of grading knowledge would go a long way! That is, when personal interaction occur. When exclusive or fashionable clientele starts to ring your doorbell. Or, when your bespoke customer’s friend, that just love the latest garment you made for your customer, also want to order that jacket. In other words, to being able to tweak a design into fitting another person without throwing all of your perfectly balanced detailing out of the window. To not start all over with your whole design process. And to absolutely not randomly just add width “here and there”.

But can’t that just be made with a laptop and some fancy software, you may ask? Well yes – but… we’re not quite there yet. First, if we want to go that way, your designs preferably have to be made within a software. That means no creative draping or shaping! Secondly, there’s the issue of printing the pattern. A4-sheets will not do since it’s such a hazard to assable. (It can be done – but hey! – there’re just so many things that can go wrong with complicated patterns. Or for that sake, just normal patterns! You will need an industrial printer.) And third – there’s the classic issue of cost, availability and knowledge. As we all know, new technology have an annoying tendency to not be cheap. And unfortunately, the hard- and software changes all the time.

So, what am I getting at? Well, let me tell you. Just that simplicity can go a very, very long way! And also be super-effective! With some basic knowledge of manual grading your pattern’s main parts could be graded in a day or so. All done! And then you can enjoy a well-shaped garment on your favorite customer! Just a pocket-calculator, a ruler, some paper, a pencil and you’re all set to go! To transform your award-winning designs into new personal sizes! That’s my point.

Let’s not surrender to badly shaped garments from huge companies! Let’s instead make and grade our own! Let’s learn about personal shaping! It’s not all that difficult. Just give it a try! You won’t regret it.

– Sten Martin / DTTA

__________

If you would like to comment, ask questions, or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

Is Electric Blue the new you?

Finally! Done. The Electric Blue Cobalt Turtleneck is ready for fitting. (Only hemming is left to be finished.)

I hope this new addition of vibrant color(s) to the Bespoke Era project will give it a fresh boost.

And hopefully it will also show that tailoring can be many things, especially within the idea of a fully tailored wardrobe – turtlenecks, t-shirts, sportswear, suits… Yes, all and everything.

Here below, you can follow the process for this item – The Turtleneck!

First, cutting out all the parts.

Then thread colors’ are chosen. I mixed different shades, just to get a more vibrant seam.

Stay strips for the shoulder seam is added.

Making the shoulder seams with overlock.

Trimming down the stay strips to be more narrow.

Joining and adding the neck piece.

Making sure to catch all three layers with the overlock.

Also making sure the stay strips are properly caught by the (neck) seam, and laying compleatly flat.

Finished neck piece.

The neck part’s seam is placed on the left side here, and matches the shoulder seam exactly.

Chalking hemlines.

Pressing hemlines.

Adding-in and stitching the sleeve part.

Closing the side- and underarm seam.

Overlocking.

Reinforceing the part under the arms, where the seams meet, with an additional machine stitch.

Checking that chalked and pressed hemlines still meet after the seam is made.

There! All finished! The menswear bright color turtleneck! Maybe you would like one too?

– Sten Martin / DTTA

__________

If you would like to comment, ask questions, or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!

The allure of AI – and the problem called… Sten Martin?

“There will be no algorithms. No commercials. No data harvesting. No AI. Just you and me both.”

That’s what it says within the new updated version of the 28 year old tailoring academy DTTA. Also, “A new way of learning.” But what is that? And is it true? And isn’t just AI the buzzword of the moment? How could someone not want to use that?

It’s quick, it’s economical, and it’s absolutely trendy!

And on top of that, how do we solve a problem like Sten Martin? The bespoke tailor that’s supposed to answer all the academy questions, be tutoring, innovative, and still stitch suits. Humans usually need to sleep. They misunderstand things. Are busy. And can be irritated sometimes. And tired. And stressed. Do we really need them?

But here’s the thing; AI mess up too! Big time. Especially when it comes to complex tailoring! Not that it hasn’t been tested. And still is.

There are thrown enormous amounts of money and work-hours into making that area of technology work. But it still, more often than not, does not.

But why? How hard can it be to make a shirt? Or a dress? Well… it turns out, very! Because of the 3D complexity of most garments. And the complexity of the human body and mind.

The difficult thing is to decide – together with the customer – what ease, comfort and ability to move actually should be, to please the customer. What is a tight fit to you? And how much extra movement and comfort should be added “for me to do like this”?

Even if you took 100 measurements and scanned the whole body, you still would have the same issue, with how to exactly describe “fashion”, “style”, “comfort” and “functionality” in precise words and amounts? Because you cannot – it changes all the time.

That’s why humans are great. A few questions, a glance at some sketches and the body at hand, a few measurements and a emotional “connection” is actually all that’s needed to make a wonderful wellfitted garment. You could more or less create anything! And why is that exactly? Well I don’t know. But I suspect it has something to do with flair, feelings, compassion, experience and passion.

Yes. Humans mess up all the time! But usually not as much as AI technology. So let’s be creative! Let’s discuss things! And learn. Let’s be fantastic! Let’s be human. Let’s not be afraid of the future.

– Sten Martin / DTTA

__________

If you would like to comment, ask questions, or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!