The Ice-Wash Jacket C2, my new favorite! How was that done? Here are some highlights below! Enjoy! (Remember that all these clothes can be ordered in your size, or, learned how to make yourself. Please contact Alexander@StenMartin.com for more info.)
Here we go! After cutting the fabric I’m starting with sewing the main counter seams.
At all the seam intersections where the fabric layer pile-ups are, I give it a go with the leather hammer before I stitch across it. Just to flatten it somewhat.
Here’s a typical seam intersection flattened, stitched and done. The thing is to get the stitching straight and continuous even though it can be op to 16 layers of fabric at some places. (Here it’s just 10 layers.)
It’s also important to end evenly at the raw “end-edges” of each seam, not transporting the top layers too much out of place compared to the lower layers. You always want to keep the shape in the right places, and not just cut off “excess” fabric at the end.
Here you can see the four-layer counter seams on both right and reversed side. I always try to keep them both as neat and even as I can, since the jacket of course will not be lined at all.
The right side of the half-finished front pocket fundament, before adding yoke and pocket flap.
And here is the reversed side of the half-finished front pocket fundament.
Adding collar and neck-strap (loop).
Making the sleeve vents.
Here’s a close-up of the sleeve vent, before adding the sleeve to the body, closing the sleeve and sideseam in one, and finally adding cuffs and waistband.
If any thread suddenly ends in the middle of a seam, or at planned secured spots where the seam naturally ends, I almost always secure the thread ends by hand, and hide the last bit between fabric layers with the help of a needle.
Three! All done! (Buttonholes will be added later on when I have a bit more time. I’ll keep you posted!)
And here it is, worn in today’s combination! Day 11 of 1.000! Let’s do this! See you tomorrow!
– Sten Martin / DTTA
If you enjoyed this content, feel free to support us by sharing this article, subscribe to one or two of our different platforms with informative content on tailoring and design, or, by just donating a sum. As a small independent company, we’re always greatful for your support!
If you would like to comment, ask questions or suggest upcoming topics, remember to log in with your subscription code. See you over there!